Playing the Gondola Game in Venice

Venice.

 

Two soft syllables that epitomize romance. Simply uttering its name conjures up images of winding cobblestone streets, graceful architecture, lovely piazzas, and over 150 interwoven canals. It’s a paradise for lovers, the dream destination of newlyweds from around the world—and also the most likely place in Italy to have your wallet emptied by one of the locals. If you’re imagining a run-in with a pickpocket or a burly mugger, though, you can relax; in this town, you might willingly hand your cash to a very charming man in a striped shirt and a straw hat.

Most newcomers to Venice rank a gondola ride at the very top of their to-do list. After all, to skip this time-honored tradition would be like going to Paris without seeing the Eiffel Tower or visiting Rome without stopping by the Colosseum. What few tourists realize, however, is that unless you’ve done your research and are willing to engage in some bare-knuckled bargaining, you might be taken for a ride in more ways than one. Don’t get me wrong; Venice is a wonderful city and touring the canals by gondola can leave you with unforgettable memories—but only if you first learn the tricks of the trade.

 

The city government’s “official” rate for gondola rides is 80 euro for 40 minutes, but you may have a hard time finding a gondolier who will accept this amount. Some may pretend not to understand the offered price, others may laugh openly in the customer’s face, and in some cases an extremely polite gondolier may simply spread his hands in a “what-can-I-do?” gesture, apologize profusely, then walk away.

 

You might be asked to pay as much as 120 euro for a 40-minute trip during the daytime, when fares are lowest. Some gondoliers are happy to haggle, but even if you bargain down to 100 euro, that still means tourists from the US are paying around $125. Considering the fact that two nights of lavish dinners in a canal-side restaurant can be enjoyed for far less, many visitors decide to abstain. There are, after all, cheaper ways to experience the beauty of Venice without missing any of the city’s famous sights.

 

The first fact everyone should know is that much of Venice can be seen from dry land as well as from the water. A pleasant stroll through the city streets actually affords a better view of both the canals and Venice’s colorful architecture, with the added benefit of being able to pause and linger over your favorite sights. Since no land vehicles are allowed anywhere in the city, Venice is a paradise for walkers. Most canals are also spanned by at least one bridge, so you’ll rarely encounter a dead end. The best spots for sightseeing are the Accademia Bridge and the Rialto Bridge, and for the mere cost of jostling for a good spot by the railing you’ll be treated to a dazzling view, especially at sunset.

 

Another advantage to taking the “dry route” is the fact that the canal water sometimes emits an unpleasant odor, especially during very hot summers. Some visitors notice it, others don't. If you have a sensitive sniffer, your ride will be less than romantic if you spend the entire time holding your nose.

 

If you’d like to see the city from the water without breaking the bank, there are several inexpensive alternatives to the gondola. Minus the cuddly atmosphere, a trip on a vaporetto—a medium-sized water bus—only costs seven euro. Even cheaper are traghetti, which can be ridden for mere pocket change. Nearly identical to private gondolas, these are used to ferry passengers from one side of the Grand Canal to the other. The trip may be short, but two people can ride a traghetto for about one euro (although the price is scheduled to rise to two euro in 2013).

 

If you do decide to hire a gondolier, remember these important points. First, you have a better chance of being charged the “official” rate at the large gondola stations located at St. Mark’s Square and the Rialto Bridge. The “freelance” gondoliers who park their boats in the side canals seem more likely to stray from the rules. But if one gondolier won’t accept the official rate, just move on to the next one and try again. There are plenty to choose from.

 

Second, make sure you and your gondolier have agreed on the route of your trip before you leave shore. Drifting down the Grand Canal can be scenic, but it can also be turbulent due to the constant traffic of water taxis and vaporetti. The many narrow canals offer a smoother, more relaxing, and far more romantic ride.

 

Third, verify ahead of time exactly how long you’ll be out on the water. It’s not uncommon for a gondolier to shave five or ten minutes off your 40-minute trip by paddling extra fast. To avoid misunderstandings, check your watch before starting out and confirm what time you’ll arrive back at the dock. Saying something like, “Okay, the ride ends at 5:30, right?” can help avoid a headache at the end of the trip.

 

If you’re craving a private boat ride but the cost of a gondola is out of your budget, consider taking a trip on a water taxi instead. A quick sightseeing tour down one of the larger canals—especially during non-peak times—should be far lower than a gondolier’s fee. Your driver won’t serenade you with his rendition of O Solo Mio, but you might experience a warm glow from the feel of all that money still in your pocket.