Nessebar: Bulgaria's Seaside Haven

Au revoir, French Riviera. Arrivederci, Amalfi Coast. Travelers craving an exotic beach vacation now have a new spot to plant their umbrellas—although describing the tiny Bulgarian town of Nessebar as “new” is ironic since it’s actually one of the oldest cities in all of Europe.

Like a chic butterfly wriggling out of its drab Communist cocoon, Bulgaria has spent the past two decades slowly blooming into an ideal vacation spot. Joining the European Union in 2007 gave the country even more exposure, and now tourists from all over the world are flocking to this rugged and beautiful region nestled between Greece and Romania. Since Bulgaria still uses its native currency (the lev) and the country’s economy is still in transition, prices for foreigners can be marvelously low. This makes Bulgaria’s Black Sea coast one of the most alluring bargains on the continent, and no town along that heavenly strip of sand is more inviting than Nessebar.

Home to only 7000 residents, the town sits on a small peninsula connected to the mainland by a single narrow road. It was officially founded in 510 AD in a spot already populated for 1500 years, making nearby Athens and Rome seem like youngsters in comparison. Nessebar began as a fishing village then grew into a vital port, and its beauty comes from the fact that it’s "old town" has never undregone a modern restoration. Instead, the postcard stands, food vendors, and merchant booths have been interspersed among the town’s natural treasures to create a harmonious blend of old and new.

As you leave the mainland behind and approach the old town, you immediately know you’re entering someplace special. A 300-year-old windmill looms above the crumbling town walls, which were built by the ancient Greeks in the fourth century BC and later fortified by the Romans and Byzantines. Once inside the gates you’ll find a maze of cobblestone streets winding their way between 19^th-century wooden houses and a collection of historical remains so amazing that they earned Nessebar a place on UNESCO’s World Heritage list.

The town has been referred to as a living museum, and with good reason. Unlike other cities who keep their prized artifacts roped off and inaccessible, Nessebar’s ancient buildings have become part of its everyday landscape. The Old Metropolitan Church, a stunning three-walled structure in the center of town, serves as an impromptu playground for children who explore the nooks and crannies of this sixth-century building while their parents sip coffee or chat with friends in the church’s shady interior. Smaller churches, built from a combination of limestone and brick then decorated with seashells and bits of painted ceramic, have been converted into art galleries or craft stores.

While Nessebar’s medieval and Byzantine architecture draw the most attention, its 19^th-century houses and shops are equally fascinating. Because the cobblestone paths are so narrow, most of these two-story structures have wider second floors which give them the shape of an inverted triangle. The town is so small that it’s impossible to become lost, so wandering down the lanes to see where you’ll end up is an adventure everyone should try. You may find yourself in a tiny courtyard shaded by apricot trees, or at a scenic overlook where waves thunder against rocks the size of buildings. You’re also sure to encounter some of Nessebar’s friendliest residents, the grandmotherly women who sit outside their homes selling crocheted linens, clay pottery, and other handmade items.

Despite its intriguing past, few people come to Nessebar strictly for a history lesson. The town’s two public beaches stay busy from June through September, serving as a summer playground for visitors from all over the world. Don’t expect the glitz, glamour, and attitude found in places like Cannes and Capri, though. It’s the sand and sea that draw people here, not the chance to party all night with celebrities.

Some visitors head to the shore early in the morning and stay until dusk. A bevy of outdoor cafés gives sun worshippers a place to refuel throughout the day, and sidewalk vendors also sell green figs, boiled ears of corn, plump raspberries, and paper cones filled with nuts and sunflower seeds. One of the most popular local snacks is gevreck, a chewy, yeasty cross between a doughnut and a bagel. Tanned teenage salesmen wander the beaches carrying sticks threaded with these treats, and there’s always one nearby if hunger pangs strike during the course of a long, lazy afternoon.

When night falls and people grudgingly pack up their towels and lotions, the crowds slowly make their way from the beaches to the restaurants. Don’t worry about reservations or arriving early, because with close to a hundred places to eat you’ll never have trouble finding a table. The menus and atmosphere vary from place to place, but Nessebar’s restaurants also share several common traits; most have outdoor seating, many overlook the Black Sea, and all serve excellent local seafood. You’ll find plenty of traditional meat and vegetable entrées as well, but don’t allow yourself to be overwhelmed by the selection.  With prices so low, the best option is to sample as many dishes as possible.

When dining at the Bulgarian seaside, there’s no such thing as “grabbing a quick bite.” Bulgarians enjoy lingering over long meals with salads, appetizers, and drinks before the main course, along with multiple toasts to put everyone in the right frame of mind. This is normally done with rakia, a brandy commonly made from either grapes or plums. It’s Bulgaria’s national drink and you’ll undoubtedly be offered a round or two by any locals you befriend, but be careful; this aromatic liquor could easily double as rocket fuel.

Bulgarian cuisine shares similarities with Greek and Turkish food, so many items will be familiar to most diners. Stuffed grape leaves, moussaka, and kebabs are all delicious here, and you’ll also find a wide assortment of salads and unusual sausages. Fish are normally grilled or fried and then served whole, so expect to do some work with your knife and fork before you dive in. An easier option is to order tza-tza, finger-sized fish which are fried and served in big bowls like pretzels. These crunchy little delicacies are excellent when washed down with a mug of beer or a cold glass of white wine. A couple can expect to pay about ten dollars for a three-course meal, including cocktails.

There’s no better way to walk off a big dinner than a moonlight stroll through Nessebar’s quiet lanes. The town assumes an entirely new personality at night when street lamps cast a yellow glow on the cobblestones and soft music from some unknown source mingles with the sound of the incoming tide. At times like these it’s easy to imagine yourself back in the days when Nessebar’s only visitors were merchants and sailors from faraway lands.

 

Many people spend weeks or even a full month in Nessebar, and the reason is simple; saying goodbye to such a perfect slice of heaven can be difficult. When your departure becomes inevitable, though, stretch your evening stroll a bit longer so you can cross the road to the mainland for one last panoramic view of the old town. In the deep blue of night, Nessebar’s lights twinkle like a handful of stars tossed into the sea and offer a fitting farewell to a memorable visit.