The area he’s referring to is the northern coast of
Honduras, an eclectic tropical paradise where rollicking beach resorts rub
shoulders with deserted mangrove wetlands. Jorge’s company, La Moskitia
Ecoaventuras, offers everything from whitewater rafting trips to excursions
into the desolate jungles along the famous Mosquito Coast.
“Some people only think they want an adventure,” he
continues. “They act excited about going into the wild, but then they get upset
if it rains or the trip starts five minutes late. Tourists like that should
just go to Epcot instead. Somebody can spray a hose over their head and tell
them they’re in the rainforest.”
I’m still damp from rafting down the Rio Cangrejal as we
have this conversation. Since we coasted along the lush, leafy edge of the Pico
Bonito rainforest during the entire trip, I can honestly say this; no amount of
money could persuade me to trade my experience for the Disney version.
After living in the shadow of neighboring Costa Rica for
years, Honduras is finally beginning to flex its muscles as a top tourist
destination. The Bay Islands, especially Roatan, have always drawn crowds of
divers and snorkelers, but now the attractions on the mainland are turning
heads as well.
La Ceiba, unofficial capital of the northern coast, sits
right in the middle of the action. It’s a typical beach town with plenty of
bars and discos for whiling away the evenings, but travelers mainly use it as a
base for exploring the surrounding area. Don’t try to cram all the adventure
into one weekend, though, because La Ceiba’s outskirts are like an eco-buffet
offering every outdoor delight you’ve ever dreamed of.
To the north lie the hypnotic blue waters of the Caribbean
Sea, perfect for swimming, sailing and diving. Just a few miles offshore are
the tiny, remote Cayos Cochinos, a group of islands with some of the best
beaches and snorkeling spots in the region. It’s also home to a village
populated by the Garifuna, a unique ethnic group created when African slaves
intermarried with local tribes back in colonial times.
The boat ride out to the Cayos can be rough on some days,
but don’t feel cheated if you find yourself stuck on shore. There are plenty of
swanky resorts where you can kick back on the sand with a drink in hand, and
prices at the moment are surprisingly low. Hotel Palma Real, an all-inclusive
resort with a sparkling beach and a pool complex to die for, offers rooms
starting at only $84 per person per night.
Turn south and the verdant peaks of the Sierra Nombre de
Dios mountain range loom seductively close. Head in this direction for great
hiking, rafting and jungle trekking. It’s the home of the sprawling Pico Bonito
National Park, a green haven so surreal that you might expect elves and other
Lord of the Rings refugees to peer out from between the trees. Rivers
criss-cross the landscape, the mountaintops are shrouded in mist, and you’re
more likely to encounter fist-sized toads or a flock of colorful birds than
another human being, even if you spend an entire day poking through the
foliage.
The Lodge at Pico Bonito, a luxury hotel tucked right on the
edge of the rainforest, makes a perfect base camp. Cozy private cabins
are surprisingly affordable, and the staff will gladly provide a map of the
walking trails which begin right outside your cabin door.
For the ultimate eco-experience, make the half-hour hike to
Mermaid Falls where crystal-clear water gushes into a huge natural swimming
hole. Dive into its cool, clean depths then float on your back and stare upward
at the sheer walls of jungle surrounding you on all sides. Nothing breaks the
silence but the gurgle of the falls and the occasional chatter of a howler
monkey or the cry of a macaw.
This is the kind of magic not even Walt Disney himself could duplicate.
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